Visitors to Amsterdam are often surprised at the Surinamese presence here -- after all, it's a South American country with a population of fewer than half a million -- much less the dozens of Surinamese restaurants that dot the map. But thanks to the 300,000 Surinamese who call the Netherlands home, the rest of us can profit from their multicultural culinary traditions. While all the recommendations below (save for Kam Yin) are in Amsterdam East, pair them with trips to the Albert Cuyp Market or Tropenmuseum for a day's itinerary.
Spang Makandra
Gerard Doustraat 39
Open Tues. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 10 p.m., Sun. 1 - 11 p.m.
This Javanese-Surinamese institution has stood just outside the hubbub of the nearby Albert Cuypstraat for more than 30 years. Their typically Surinamese broodjes ("sandwiches") reflect a broad culinary spectrum, from Creole pom (a meat-flecked tuber casserole) to Javanese tempeh (fermented soy cakes). Their mains, served with rice, roti or noodles, and near-bottomless soups are some of the best dinner values in town.
Roopram Roti
Eerste van Swindenstraat 4
Open Tues. - Sat. 2 - 9 p.m., Sun. 3 - 9 p.m.
A Surinamese company that's well established in the capital city Paramaribo, Roopram Roti first appeared on Dutch shores via its location in Rotterdam, and soon opened a branch in Amsterdam. With a reputation for the best roti in town -- a soft, unleavened flatbread similar to flour tortillas -- customers don't mind the queues or off-the-beaten track location when the reward is such a superlatively authentic, top-quality meal.
Kam Yin
Warmoesstraat 8
Open daily 12 p.m. - 12 a.m.
This Chinese-Surinamese hybrid is hailed as the best of its breed; even the New York Times has waxed lyrical about Kam Yin's broad variety, from Indian roti to Chinese chop suey, at rock-bottom prices. Located on central Warmoesstraat and open relatively late, it's an ideal place to eat before (or while) you hit the town.
Eethuis Marlon
1e Van der Helststraat 55
Open Wed. - Mon. 11 a.m. - 8 p.m.
If Amsterdam ever cast their votes for best saoto ajam -- a traditional Javanese chicken soup that first infiltrated Suriname, then the Netherlands -- Eethuis Marlon would certainly come out on top. Packed out with diners of Surinamese and Indonesian descent, this corner eatery between Albert Cuypstraat and Sarphatipark has a lovely street-side terrace or indoor tables where diners can slurp their soup.
